por eso, no hiciste logs en el momento del fallo? el RB esta en el vano y la ecu adentro?
el RB esta adentro del vano justo adelante del compartimiento de la batería pero del lado de adentro del motor.
la ecu esta en la guantera del gol.
para mi con la temperatura del múltiple se debe perder resistencia el resorte del tps, y cuando hago un viaje largo acelerándolo a 20% por decir con la temperatura el resorte va perdiendo resistencia y se va estirando bien las pistas.
sabes porque deduzco esto porque cuando lo puse 0km andaba en ciudad y toda la historia y andaba perfecto sin ningún drama de nada, hice 3 viajes y ahí empezó a joder a tal punto que hoy a la mañana me quedaba siempre en 13% de apertura y no había cambiando nada, tuve que calibrarlo con ese 13% por mas que acelerara y todo no volvía a 0%.
me baje de gusto para ver si la mariposa no cerraba o algo y la mariposa estaba perfecta en el lugar le hice fuerza para atrás y no variaba en nada...
leí en megamanual y hice todas las pruebas de componentes siguiendo al pie de la letra lo que dice y la mega esta todo perfecto resolde toda la parte de entrada por las dudas y tampoco hubo mejoras, saque la RB y mire si estaba todo ok y efectivamente todo ok.
12) If you have trouble with the Throttle Position Sensor reading in MegaTune, the problem is most likely with the wiring at the TPS. Refer to the TPS section of the wiring guide for more information.
However, if it also gives problems on the stim, you need to look at the following components to make sure they are correct: C8 (0.001), C9 (0.22), and R9 (1K Ohm). Check all the solder joints as well. Also, make sure there is no excess flux around the affected components. If all of these are okay, you need to look a bit deeper.
Disconnect the stimulator and remove the 68HC908 processor. The TPS signal connects to pin 26 of the CPU, so you might check that this pins is soldered properly. You can measure the resistance of R9 directly on the board (it should be about 1K Ohm ± 50 ohms). R9 is above the "&" in the copyright notice. You can also check the resistance from the CPU pin #26 (near the H1 boot header) to R9 - on the side of R9 nearest the DB37 you should have less than 1.0 ohm (0.1 is better), - on the side of R9 nearest the DB9 you should have ~1K Ohm.
paso 12) todo perfecto tal cual lo dice.
14) b. One the other hand, if the MegaSquirt® won't respond at first (when cold), or won't start with a serial cable and laptop attached, but works normally after a few seconds of powering up (or a few cranking tries), then suspect D19. On a V3 board D19 protects the 5 Vref from voltage spikes. The supply is 5 Volts, so the Zener diode rating must be higher than that, otherwise the diode will conduct all the time and fail quickly from excessive heat/current. In theory, 5.1 Volts is okay. However, in practice, these diodes typically have a tolerance of ~10%, meaning that a 5.1V Zener diode may conduct at 4.6V, and thus conduct all the time, heat up, and fail. A 5.6V can be as low a 5.1 Volts, which is fine. Also, these diodes have a temperature dependence - their rating when cold is lower than when hot (actually Zener diodes greater than 5.00 volts act this way, diodes rated less than 5.00 volts have a higher rating when cold). So you should replace D19, and moving up to a 6.2 Volt Zener diode, such as DigiKey 1N4735ADICT-ND would be a good idea (it provides slightly less protection, but potentially much better reliability).
However, note that in some cases the symptoms of C22 or D19 failing can mimic each other, so you should check both if you have problems getting consistent power (and check the stim battery/power supply if using a stim).
Also, if the MegaSquirt is slow to start up, you might check that you haven't accidentally shorted the 5 Volt supply (by mis-wiring the TPS sensor, for example). A voltmeter on the regulator should show a steady 5.00 Volts (± 0.10V) between the regulator pin furthest from the DB9 and the center pin of the regulator, and the external 5Vref supply (DB37 pin 26) should show a constant 5.00 Volts (± 0.10V) within a few milliseconds on start-up and at all other times MegaSquirt is powered.
14-a) controle por las dudas y también todo perfecto.
esto es lo que ami me descoloca.
If you have trouble starting the car, and no fuel seems to come out of the injectors, use the "Tools/Calibrate TPS" function in MegaTune to ensure that you have an ADC count value well below 155 at closed throttle, and above 178 at wide open throttle (WOT). This will ensure that you are not in flood clear mode while cranking (ideally, your TPS at closed throttle will be 20 or less), and yet still able to activate flood clear mode. Many TPS are adjustable by loosening the screws and rotating it a bit.
Flood clear mode is triggered at a TPS ADC count value of 155 (~3 volts),
EGO feedback is disabled above 178 (~3.5 volts).
porque a 100% tengo un valor de 680 (4.9volt) puntos y no 178 como dice aca.
y a 0% tengo 540 (4.1volt) y no 20 o menos.
lo que voy a tener que terminar de probar es cerrandole la mariposa con el tornillo y compensar eso con el IAC, porque yo actualmente lo trabajo en el iac como cerrado en 25 pasos y abierto en 90. y la mariposa bastante abierta.
voy a probar cerrar la mariposa al minimo, y darle mas valor al iac.
